Industrial ripping circular saw blades

SERIES:  201

Tungsten carbide tipped tool Tool with anti-kickback design Low noise saw blade Saw blade in black plastic packaging
D Z B b K P a Order No. Buy now Availability
10" 24 5/8" FTG 0.126 0.087 20į 201.024.10 Buy now Not available
12" 30 1" FTG 0.126 0.087 20į 201.030.12 Buy now Available
8-8-1/4" 20 5/8"<> FTG 0.126 0.087 20į 201.020.08 Buy now Available
Blade Guard for a Shop Built Tenoning Jig

By Gord Graff (Woodworkerís News & Reviews)

Cutting tenons, half lap or bridle joints vertically on the table saw with a shop built tenoning jig is an accurate, efficient and popular way of producing these types of joints. There is however an important safety issue that needs to be addressed when cutting these types of joints on the table saw and that is, how do you guard the blade when using a shop built tenoning jig?

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As woodworkers we are, or we should be, concerned with taking measures to guard the table saw blade when ripping, cross cutting and performing other table saw operations but when it comes to using a shop built tenoning jig, I rarely see woodworkers guard the blade.

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It really doesnít take that much effort or expense to place a measure of protection between the spinning table saw blade and me, the operator. An example of that measure of protection is the use of this type of shop built blade guard.

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Held in place by two MagJig150's with their 150lbs each, of vertical holding force and with the guardís 1/4? thick polycarbonate shield, this guard provides me with a measure of protection that Iím comfortable with. Back before these magnets were available, Iíd make a similar guard with the exception of the plywood base being wider in order to clamp it to the table sawís top.

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The construction of the blade guard couldnít be simpler. The base of the guard is a piece of 3/4? Baltic Birch plywood, 6? wide by 17? long and has two MagJig 150 switchable magnets installed through 40mm diameter holes. And with a 180 degree turn of their on/off knobs, these switchable magnets unleash a combined vertical holding force of 300lbs. This guard is simple to use, installs and adjusts easily and quickly.

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The vertical portion of the guard is a piece of Maple (although other materials will work fine) and itís 1 5/8? thick by 3? tall and 17? long. I chose to make this piece 3? tall because it raises the underside of the 1/4? polycarbonate a total of 3 3/4? above the surface of the table sawís table, leaving clearance for the saw blade when the blade is fully raised out of the table.

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The Baltic Birch plywood based is screwed and glued into the Maple vertical piece using 5, #8◊1 1/2? screws in predrilled, countersunk holes. The 6? x 17? x 1/4? polycarbonate guard is screwed into the Maple using 5, #8◊1 1/4? screws in predrilled holes with a 1/8? drill bit to prevent the Maple from splitting. I then sanded the sharp edges off the entire guard to make it user friendly with 150 grit sandpaper. Itís now ready for use.

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When cutting tenons, half lap or bridle joints I constantly see woodworkers load stock into their tenoning jig with the blade unguarded, make their first cut and then return their shop built tenoning jig and its ďjust cut jointĒ back over the table sawís spinning blade. They then remove the stock from the tenoning jig, turn it 180 degrees right near a spinning unguarded blade, reinstalling the stock back into the jig to make another cut and continue on repeating this process. There are just so many things wrong with this picture.
First, I refuse to pull stock backwards over a spinning blade. If that material gets snagged by the blade as Iím pulling it backwards or if the kerf Iíve just cut in that material has closed slightly, Iím in big trouble. Secondly, removing and rotating the stock in proximity to a spinning, unguarded blade can spell disaster if the material slips from my hand and catches the blade. And most importantly, Iím standing in front of a table saw with its spinning blade that is totally exposed. Itís just something I wonít do.

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When I cut tenons, half laps or bridle joints on the table saw Iím never in any hurry. I set my shop built tenoning jig to make the cut, slide the guard into place, switch on the magnets and Iím ready to go. I now have a measure of protection Iím comfortable with; the blade is guarded from the beginning of the cut to the end of the cut.

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I then run the stock through the blade; shut the saw off and when the blade has stopped spinning, I then bring the jig back to the start position, rotate my stock and repeat. By the way, there are two tenoning jig manufacturers that I know of who have placed this procedure into the operating instructions of their tenoning jigs. Iím sure more manufacturers will follow that lead.

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Now Iíll be the first to admit that this method takes a little more time but Iím not likely to put myself in harmís way by cutting this type of joinery, this way. When I was younger I was taught that ďNo job has priority over safetyĒ and for me, that safety rule applies while using my shop built tenoning jig on the table saw.

Application: for fast, smooth, heavy-duty rip cuts.

Machines: radial arm saws, miter saws, table and special saws.

Material: soft and hard wood.

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Excellent rip cut on wood.- product picturezoom Excellent rip cut on wood.
Good rip and crosscut on plywood.- product picturezoom Good rip and crosscut on plywood.